Hotel Bembo in Bibione, on the Venice coast of Italy, is a quiet place this afternoon. It's not because there's nobody staying there: on the contrary, it's full. It's not because everybody's out either. But it is definitely quiet. In fact, the only sound you are likely to hear is a gentle but rhythmic chorus of snoring, as the Linda McCartney Foods Cycling Team attempt to sleep off the first 11 stages of the Giro d'Italia.

The race's one rest day comes after the first long time-trial, and represents a chance to recharge those tired legs before the hell of the third week kicks in. Tomorrow the race climbs the significant obstacle of the Valico Le Laste before dropping to the finish in Feltre, and that signifies the start of some unrelenting mountain climbing reaching right up to the last weekend. Saturday tackles three passes in excess of 2000 metres, including the notorious Marmolada before the finish at Selva Gardena ski village. Sunday's mountain mass includes the frightening slopes of the infamous Gavia Pass, where Andy Hampsten sealed his only Tour of Italy in an unseasonable blizzard in 1988. Keep your fingers crossed for the riders and spectators that no such evils await them this time - the road is brutal enough as it is.

If anything, things get worse later in the week, with the scramble up to the heights of Le Due Frabosa on Thursday immediately followed by Friday's stage into the French Alps. They will cross the high point of the race, the Colle dell'Agnello standing at an outrageous 2748 metres above sea level, plus the renowned Martian landscapes of the Cassis Desert high on the Col d'Izoard. The riders will then still face a lonely battle against the watch in Saturday's mountain time trial, as they climb one-by-one from Briancon, back over the border and up to the ski station at Sestrieres.

Whoever makes it through that infernal few days will be proud to take his place on the start line in Turin, knowing that the flat roads that separate him from Milan are all that stand between him and a successful completion of the 83rd Giro d'Italia.

But Sunday 4th June is still a distant dream to the Linda McCartney team at present. They sleep soundly, happy to already have a fantastic stage win under their belts and some memorable exploits pulled off in the first 11 stages, especially after the early blow of losing their teammates Pascal Richard and Ben Brooks. The seven stout survivors rode through yesterday's time-trial comfortably, Bjornar Vestol taking the prize of being the team's best rider with a creditable 35th place on the stage. Bjornar's terrible day of sickness on last week's stage to Peschichi left him last overall in this race, but he edges closer to the riders in front of him, as others drop out altogether.

Thursday morning saw a brief training ride to keep the legs supple, a lunch filmed by French TV channel TF1, and a long series of interviews for the world's press before the welcome afternoon nap. There was a chance to look over the big articles filed by the Gazzetta, Times, Guardian, Independent and Observer in recent days plus even a dip in the pool for the more energetic, but for the most part, this is definitely a sleepy corner of Italy today. uk